Chef Eric Cook’s Gris-Gris restaurant opened its doors on August 1 in the former home of Phillip Lopez’s ambitious, Lower Garden District corner, tasting menu spot, Square Root, which closed its doors in the very last moments of 2017 after about three years in business.
Unlike its inventive predecessor, Gris-Gris is more approachable, serving the kind of food Cook would serve in his own home, according to the Advocate, like burgers, gumbo, Cook’s mother’s chicken and dumplings, and po-boys.
Where the stools surrounding the open kitchen area at Square Root could feel like church seats surrounding an alter to $150 tasting menus with the chef as televangelist, the same layout provides a more primordial comfort at Gris-Gris, the way communities used to gather around the fire or the hearth and the way guests congregate in the kitchen.
Cook, originally from Louisiana, has cooked at Brennan’s, Bourbon House, American Sector, and Tommy’s Cuisine.
Gris-Gris’ opening hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, serving lunch and dinner. Happy hour runs from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily.
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