Critic Helen Freund visits Gogi, a new Korean restaurant on Veterans Boulevard in Metairie with an “array of traditional Korean dishes as well as some creative and modern touches.” Owner Jae Kim and his mother, Young Yoo, ran Korean restaurants in California and Las Vegas for a decade before moving to New Orleans. Traditional treats include kimchi, a fermented mung bean salad (sukjunamul), stir-fried fish cakes (eomuk bokkeum), and bibimbap. The kitchen also “colors outside of the lines” with some “playful, modern” dishes like the Gogi nachos.
“Gogi nachos feature tortilla chips blanketed in melted cheddar and American cheeses, diced green peppers, bulgogi (sweet strips of marinated and grilled beef) and soy and mayonnaise-heavy "special" sauce. The delicious dish blended the appeal of trashy movie nachos with some creative inspiration.”
Less successful was the “mysteriously named” Gogi special, a “sushi-like appetizer of blended spicy tuna and snow crab that is deep-fried in spears and served with a spicy mayonnaiselike dipping sauce...It was greasy and fell apart quickly.” According to Freund, must-order dishes include the spicy rice cakes, kimchi jigae, and bulgogi. [GAMBIT]
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