Critic Tom Fitzmorris Finds the Best Steak and Banana Dish at Brennan’s

“First class dining” denizen Tom Fitzmorris heads to Brennan’s (417 Royal St), the gorgeously restored grand dame of dining that Ralph Brennan resurrected after it fell into bankruptcy. Chef and James Beard award finalist Slade Rushing came aboard and “immediately set out on a course that would see most of the old dishes perish, to be replaced by brilliant new versions through most of the menu. However, old dishes that were clearly distinctive were kept whole – even the famous Filet Stanley, the city’s best steak-and-banana dish.” In short, he thinks the restaurant is keeping up with the times. The only thing T-Fitz really misses from before the reign of Ralph Brennan and the $20 million dollar renovation that came with it? “As deft as Rushing is, a person of my generation yearns for some of the mild funkiness the dining rooms, cooking and service that Brennan’s once had. But that will work itself out over the years.” [CITY BUSINESS]

Helen Freund heads to Shawarma on the Go (3720 Magazine St), “a small Middle Eastern restaurant tucked inside the Jetgo gas station on Magazine Street” and finds the “straightforward formula here hits the spot.” Much of the menu is what you would expect: “moist and flavorful” chicken and gyro plates and sandwiches, “orbs” of falafel that were “surprisingly moist but needed seasoning.” The casual spot steps out of the box with The Philly, “which is packed with gyro meat instead of thin-sliced steak” and a feta-laced fried eggplant sandwich, “messy indulgence, and one that I imagine would be satisfying after a late night of drinking.” [GAMBIT]