Josephine Estelle's Snapper Crudo Is Worth The Hype

This week Helen Freund reviews Warehouse District newcomer Josephine Estelle: The "buzzed about" Ace Hotel eatery from Memphis chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman is "decidedly Italian," though the dishes are "a far cry" from the red gravy restaurants that abound in New Orleans. Here, "whisper light" dishes include a much raved-about snapper crudo that lives up to the hype with flavors of hazelnut and Meyer lemon curd. There's also "pillowy" gnocchi, "golf ball sized" Arancini and brussels sprouts that surprise with a tart zing. The service is a "well-oiled machine" but don't expect a quiet experience at this hotspot. [Gambit]