This week Helen Freund reviews Mid City Italian pop-up Tana at Treo. Chef Michael Gulotta "taps into his Sicilian background in beautiful and surprising ways" including great housemade pastas, a standout roasted garlic spaghetti with "fat Florida clams and hot sausage," and many creative ingredients that delight:
Garum, a Roman-style fish sauce similar to Vietnamese nuoc mam, is used to dress charred broccoli nestling cured kumquats and almonds. Ribbons of mint and red chilies add the slightest touch of heat and freshness.
The spot gives the impression of being quite the hidden gem. Vegetarians may be disappointed though, as there aren't many options for them on the short menu.