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This week Ian McNulty finds that Uptown Sicilian gem Avo is ascending to greatness: Chef Nick Lama's eatery "feels authentic and personal and at the top of its game" with an ambitious menu that "ups the ante" on familiar dishes from tuna crudo to charred octopus to a risotto with lobster and English peas that has the "delicate taste of spring." But don't miss the simple "spaghetti in spicy red sauce... or meatballs or linguine with clams," all of which "brings the menu back home." [Advocate]