Angeline Throws A Curve Ball Into The Southern Restaurant Game

Ian McNulty reviews Angeline this week: Chef Alex Harrell's Quarter spot goes beyond typical Southern restaurants with an "intimate familiarity" of the region's comfort food, seasonality, and a hint of Mediterranean flavors.

A clutch of pork fat muffins and fluffy Parker House rolls start the meal, and a classic cut of pecan pie (larded crust and all) can finish it. In between, there are surprises.

As for those surprises? An exceptional sherry program at the bar, a "distinctive" if not trendy cauliflower dish,  shrimp with country ham that's a "standout," an a baller vegetarian entree—"tofu, served in firm, nutty-tasting cubes with charred seasonal vegetables and a splash of citrus."

Helen Freund takes a trip to Bywater newcomer The Cheezy Cajun: "It's the latest in a series of butcher shop and restaurant hybrids" with Cajun meats, a selection of Wisconsin cheeses, a full bar, sandwiches, a killer chicken biscuit, and even a new brunch. But the two main reasons to visit?

1. Fried cheese curds, which "could be in the running for New Orleans' best new bar snack."
2. The "deluxe bloody mary" served with a Miller Highlife pony and topped with pickled veggies and a boudin ball.

Cheezy Cajun [Photo: Brasted]