Ian McNulty reviews Angeline this week: Chef Alex Harrell's Quarter spot goes beyond typical Southern restaurants with an "intimate familiarity" of the region's comfort food, seasonality, and a hint of Mediterranean flavors.
A clutch of pork fat muffins and fluffy Parker House rolls start the meal, and a classic cut of pecan pie (larded crust and all) can finish it. In between, there are surprises.
As for those surprises? An exceptional sherry program at the bar, a "distinctive" if not trendy cauliflower dish, shrimp with country ham that's a "standout," an a baller vegetarian entree—"tofu, served in firm, nutty-tasting cubes with charred seasonal vegetables and a splash of citrus."
Helen Freund takes a trip to Bywater newcomer The Cheezy Cajun: "It's the latest in a series of butcher shop and restaurant hybrids" with Cajun meats, a selection of Wisconsin cheeses, a full bar, sandwiches, a killer chicken biscuit, and even a new brunch. But the two main reasons to visit?
- Fried cheese curds, which "could be in the running for New Orleans' best new bar snack."
- The "deluxe bloody mary" served with a Miller Highlife pony and topped with pickled veggies and a boudin ball.