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This week Helen Freund reviews Uptown hotspot Kenton's: "An expansive backlit bar anchors the elegant space... showcasing an impressive selection" of bourbon, which is also reflected in chef Kyle Knall's "nuanced takes on Southern-accented dishes, most of which include the signature charred and smoky flavors of the spirit." Try the wood-fire oysters and the untraditional deviled crab (topped with "inky caviar") but beware the bland lamb carpaccio and a bit of sticker shock. [Gambit]