This week Brett Anderson makes it rain on Uptown whiskey hub Kenton's, with a coveted FOUR BEANS that is. "Those initially baited into Kenton's by brown liquor should be delighted by what they find: a serious, brand-new American restaurant whose maturity belies its youth" and "is really a seafood restaurant without claiming to be." What's more:
It is the best new place to eat in New Orleans this side of Shaya.
Kenton's is the creation of NY restaurateur Sean Josephs (of Maysville fame) and partner Mani Dawes (she's also a Nola native), who recently relocated Uptown and have managed to strike a 'melodious chord' with residents all too "weary of being Brooklynized." Exceptional service, a beauty of a dining room, and a sleek raw bar all add to the appeal.
So what to order? Anderson recommends all things seafood, with Chef Kyle Knall turning out a slew of dishes that respect Southern tradition without coming across old-fartish or affected ie. meniuere ain't dere, but glorious "hammy" Oysters Rockefeller and a sheepshead cloaked in bourbon butter sauce are. Must orders include smoked trout, woodfired oysters and any dessert created by impressive pastry chef Caroline Schiff.
Also, enjoy a whiskey. There are over 150 to choose from.