This week Helen Freund reviews Adolfo Garcia's new Central City addition Primitivo: A "cavernous" space offers tons of seating at this primitive new spot with a focus on fire and proteins, where the best seats in the house is at a wraparound counter in back surrounding the big open hearth. As for what said fire touches:
It's hard to say what on the menu most embodies the flavor of smoke, but the beef coulotte is a good start. The lean, tender meat sits underneath a thin cap of fat that gets rendered crispy and dark and seeps into each bite, carrying distinct notes of campfire smoke.
Other best bets include the confit duck wings, roasted chicken, and prime rib accompanied by a "Flintstones-sized" marrow bone, though a smoked potato salad disappoints. Take heed, solo diners, as Freund warns that "the larger, family-style portions" are what "really impress" here, so plan an evening with friends or family. [Gambit]