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Creamed Corn Pizza Is a Showstopper At Cibugnu

But beware the forced appetizers.

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Helen Freund reviews the oft-overlooked Warehouse District Italian eatery Cibugnu this week: "Managing partner Hillary Barq and chef Nick Vella took over in June and have maintained the restaurant's focus on Sicilian-influenced dishes" in a casual setting at this spot, sandwiched between stunners Herbsaint and Marcello's. While appetizers can tend toward the bland or unbalanced, stick with the pastas—especially the squid ink linguine—and the best bet of all, the wood fired pizzas:

A standout Parmesan creamed corn and shrimp version sounds strange at first but is a showstopper. The buttery corn topping tastes like a bisque but is thicker; crispy, salty slices of speck add deep fatty flavor, which is balanced by heaps of fresh arugula.

Cibugnu

709 Saint Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 558-8990

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