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This week Tom Fitzmorris raves about French Quarter finfish dreamland GW Fins and its 'incomparable' chef and owner Tenney Flynn: You'll find "no junk" fish at this "sharp, modern" spot that "does with seafood what the prime steakhouses do with beef." While Essential Dishes like the lobster dumplings, grilled oysters, and baked-to-order apple pie are must orders, the rule of thumb here is to give priority to special menus which often feature rarities such as Australian crabs and "exotic tunas", and daily catches, as chef Flynn is known to go "spearfishing in the Gulf, coming back with the likes of lionfish" for the night's menu. +1 hipness point and one warning: "Don't eat too many of the complimentary sweet drop biscuits." [CityBiz, sub req]