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This week Ian McNulty goes wild at Sac-A-Lait, a new Warehouse District spot from chefs Cody and Samantha Carroll (of New Roads, LA) where Louisiana's rural flavors get a brash and modern upgrade. McNulty gets amped on a chaudin burger (on Friday's lunch menu), frog leg and alligator gumbo, turtle boudin that's more like black pudding (no rice), crab roe vermicelli pasta, and a smoked cobia plate that "arrives as a cloud of smoke captured under a great glass bulb, which is released at the table with theatrical flourish." This newcomer also has a raw bar and great local beers on tap, but prepare for a rather lackluster wine selection and sometimes "sticker shock." [Advocate]
Meanwhile Helen Freund hits up Junction, a train-themed bar and burger spot on the edge of the tracks on St. Claude Ave. in the Bywater from Molly's/13 team Lloyd Miller and Jim and Alana Monaghan. With 40 beers on tap and Monaghan's signature frozen Irish coffee, this spot is "first and foremost a bar," albeit with must-order fried pickles and two burgers that rise above the rest—the sweet and savory Central Vermont burger with cheddar, applewood smoked bacon and a maple crema, and the Kansas City Southern inspired by 'molasses-heavy smoked meats.' All burgers come on Dong Phuong's sweet brioche rolls. [Gambit]
Times-Pic critic Brett Anderson catalogs the ten best things he ate in New Orleans in July. Anderson gets all cheesy with fried haloumi at Shaya and gouda beignets at Bouligny Tavern, before vegging out on charred eggplant at PDR (inside St. Roch Market) and Church Alley's avocado toast. Things get artsy at Balise where a "colorful still life of melons with crispy ham" impresses. Full list here. [NOLA.com]