Gambit's New Critic Helen Freund Reviews Gert Town 'Jewel Box' Kin

Helen Freund unleashes her first review for The Gambit this week, visiting new Gert Town hotspot Kin: "Owner Hieu Than and chef Nate Nguyen have been turning out an ambitious menu of modern American dishes that showcase the wide talents of a kitchen crew unafraid of taking risks." And risky it is, with a menu that changes weekly, 'sparse seating', and dishes of 'fine dining quality' at affordable cost including beautiful takes on short ribs and tiramisu and more gems Asian, Italian, and even French flare:

White and green asparagus are served with a poached egg, puffed rice and a touch of spicy yuzu and are finished with miso hollandaise. Lightly battered and fried oysters are combined with crawfish tails and pan-fried gnocchi and nestled atop fennel-orange puree. The medley is draped in beurre blanc, sprinkled with nips of crispy prosciutto and decorated with an array of fresh greens. The result is decadent but not overly rich.

Kin is currently BYOB (and awaiting a license to booze), and will launch a ramen lunch menu sometime this month.