Recent Gambit hire Helen Freund unleashes her second review this week, taking on Mid City's Brown Butter Southern Kitchen and Bar: Chef-owners Simon Beck and Dayne Womax are serving what they call "Bible belt cuisine" – that is, "Southern-inspired fare from outside New Orleans." The dining room is comfortably laid-back and "service is friendly and accommodating," but it sounds like the real standout here is Brown Butter's take on chicken and waffles:
Thick pieces of sourdough, grilled on a waffle iron, provide the infrastructure for a decadent chicken and "waffle" sandwich, in which buttery chicken confit is combined with smoked ham and aged white cheddar. After a press on the iron, the sandwich is draped in syrupy Steen's mustard glaze and sprinkled with powdered sugar, and the result is stick-to-your-ribs comfort food.
Other dishes of note include the T.L.T. sandwich, which subs tasso ham in for the usual bacon, and a New York strip with bone marrow-roasted potatoes. Overall, "While some dishes need some fine-tuning," Freund declares Brown Butter "a promising addition to Mid-City's rapidly expanding culinary scene."