Newly opened modern American hotspot Kin may be "an island surrounded by homes, warehouses and a drainage canal" in Gert Town, but this week the Times-Pic's new-restaurant whisperer Todd Price reports that it is, in fact, an "oasis" of unexpectedly fresh fine dining of the fusion nature. But don't go thinking it's all 1990s raw tuna meets burrito or something. Here, Price notes that Kin bucks the dirty connotations of fusion and manages to come off more as "an experiment in democracy" rather than a dated operation.
The dishes surprise in the small polished space, including a burrata and tomato appetizer that draws the diner in with promises of a soy dashi broth and balsamic reduction, but leaves them remembering "how the skinned and fried tomato exploded like a water balloon when you took a bite."
Chefs Hieu Than and Nate Nguyen's menu draw upon American, Latin American, Vietnamese, Chinese, French, Italian, and even Middle Eastern influences, and are soon going to add German and Irish to the mix when Kin's sous chefs update the menu next month. Add in reasonable prices and a spot on the Eater NOLA heatmap, and there's no question why Price is all:
As for any bad news about Kin, there doesn't seem to be much afloat other than a lone Yelper claiming that the small plates are too small. The restaurant is only open for dinner with plans to add a Ramen lunch menu in the coming month.
Does New Orleans need another fine-dining restaurant? Given my job, I hear that question often. If we're talking about Kin, then the answer is yes.