ICHI Japanese Ramen House 'Delivers The Basics' in The Marigny

Critic Helen Freund heads to Little Tokyo expansion ICHI Japanese Ramen House in the Marigny this week: The tonkotsu-focused restaurant opened in the former Sukho Thai location in July (another space on Maple followed in August). It's BYOB, and even though some ingredients—including over-poached eggs—can be uneven, in general ICHI gets the job done with "a bare-bones approach... giant, steaming bowls of slippery noodles diners can inhale," good service and legit octopus and shrimp dumplings on the appetizer side. [Gambit]