Reviews For La Boca, Johnny Sánchez, and Antoine's

This week Ian McNulty reviews a stunner that belongs to the Adolfo Garcia empire, Argentinian steakhouse La Boca in the Warehouse District. Chef/partner Jared Ralls, who will also be a partner in Garcia's upcoming Central City venture, has brought the restaurant to its "fullest potential" in the new (and bigger) Tchoupitoulas space. While 'mainstream' steaks delight, McNulty also suggest the 'enigmatic' and confit-like entraña con piel, "a wonderfully weird steak with a dark richness approaching that of organ meat and a hard outer shell that crunches and crackles under your teeth like a savory candy." [Advocate]

Sarah Baird examines all things tacos at Johnny Sánchez, the new taqueria from celebchef bffs John Besh and Aaron Sánchez, this week: The goat tacos are light years ahead of others in the city... Beef tongue also spotlights the restaurant's commitment to taking a chewy piece of meat and taming it" and "Louisiana influences peek through in the cauliflower tacos, with a thick swath of pecan-chipotle butter."  Baird is fine with adding insects to the guac, but something that really bugs her: "Many drinks on the cocktail list feature bourbon or gin instead of tequila." [Gambit]

Just in time for Mardi Gras, Tom Fitzmorris rolls out a FOUR WHOLE STAR review of 175-year-old baller Antoine's, with one simple caveat: "Do not attempt to dine at Antoine's when the entire place is packed, as it is during the weeks before Christmas and Mardi Gras." Right. Moving on: Everything is perfection including the #1 Essential Dish Oysters Three Way (that's 'tree way' for the real hepcats) and #2 Oysters Foch (pronunciation debatable) as "the kitchen uses very fine foodstuffs and serves them simply" under the direction of CEO Rick Blount and chef Michael Regua. But, alas, T-Fitz laments, "as much as I like the Hermes Lounge, the high tables and chairs are all wrong. I wish they'd add some sofas." -2 Hipness points because Frankie says relax, but you can't when there's no dang sofas. [CityBusiness, sub req]