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3 Beans for Carrollton Market; T-Fitz Gets Crabby Shacked

Limited edition Times-Pic beanie baby Brett Anderson releases THREE BEANS from his tightly sewn seams of culinary knowledge to Riverbend stunner Carrollton Market this week. At nearly five-months-in, chef Jason Goodenough already "possesses a casual fluency of high-and-low and cross-cultural styles" with "visually arresting" plates, including Anderson faves: tête de cochon, succulent pork belly, Oysters Goodenough, and the amazingly light chocolate peanut butter pie.

Despite the "blazer-clad empty-nesters... limited square footage" and often "conversation-snuffing volume," Anderson notes that "Carrollton Market's blemishes do not leave a lasting stain on what it consistently achieves: Attentive service, great cocktails, and even better food from a "tiny but serious neighborhood place that shines." [NOLA.com]

Meatless diet sympathizer Ian McNulty tries veganism on for size at Seed this week: "as a (hopefully) open-minded omnivore, I appreciate Seed's rethinking of the fundamentals behind some comfort food classics" from nachos to gumbo to "po-boys ($10) that push all the buttons you'd expect but swap the main act for a suitably meatless alternative." Juice and legit cocktails abound, especially the Himalayan Salty Dog, which McNulty calls a "a refreshing curtain-raiser," which along with his meal brings the word "pleasure" to mind. [Advocate]

Seeker of well-coiffed comfort Sarah Baird finds just the thing at the Marigny's new small plates and cocktail haunt The Franklin: "The atmosphere is convivial and cozy without feeling cramped, with the kind of sultry, dim lighting that at certain angles can make diners feel as if they're on the set of a noirish film." Thoughtful cocktails, a robust wine list, and a classic bistro menu that ventures into "playful" territory— steak with foie gras ice cream and an escargot eclair— make this a date-night or casual weeknight do, one that Baird believes will "remain rock solid," as other trendy spots come and go. [Gambit]

Fried seafood platter emoticon Tom Fitzmorris travels to the Crabby Shack on the Northshore this week, doing out THREE WHOLE STARS...but what about the FRIED CALAMARI? Alas, the highly addictive substance only lands #3 on T-Fitz' Top 10 Essential Dishes, with raw oysters taking the win. All of T-Fitz' crabby trappings are in order here: portion sizes too large to finish, low prices, 'glad-handing' (and how!), inviting board specials and classic neighborhood-style dishes, family-friendly dining, and an owner (Keith Young) primarily known for his opulent steakhouse. Despite such razzle-fitz-dazzle, ZERO HIPNESS POINTS are in order, likely because "the fryer is the center of the kitchen" rather than some darn tootin' chef and all his/her accompanying bullshit. [CityBusiness, sub req]

· Carrollton Market, small but serious New Orleans bistro, shines beyond glare of national acclaim [NOLA.com]
· A new vegan restaurant makes a case for what's on the plate, not what isn't [Advocate]
· Review: The Franklin [Gambit]
· Crabby's satisfies North Shore seafood lovers [CityBusiness, subscription required]
· All Week In Reviews [-ENOLA-]
[Photo: Brasted]

Carrollton Market

8132 Hampson Street, , LA 70118 (504) 252-9928 Visit Website

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