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This week Ian McNulty finds exotic comfort at Milkfish, the Mid City restarurant from chef Cristina Quackenbush, that's "uniquely adapted to jump-start the culinary conversation." McNulty notes lots of "personality" from cocktails to service, and a menu that specializes in things you've likely never tried, but should: "While some people will recoil at the mention of blood stew, this one, the dinuguan ($13), is soothing and soulful, with the mouth feel and lush earthiness of a Mexican mole." [Advocate]
Sarah Baird slams new Slim Goodies expansion Horn's Eatery in the Marigny this week: " Lunchtime plates and sandwiches are the restaurant's most solid offerings, and perhaps the only dishes worth seeking out." [Gambit]
Tom Fitzmorris doles out THREE WHOLE STARS to new CBD expansion Marcello's this week. "Mar-CHELL-ohz" has an inspired wine program and a rewarding range of Sicilian dishes that work well, but fitzcrankenpants won't stand for one thing: "Where are the pig's feet?" Also it's rather pricey, and T-Fitz has "had a clinker at every meal, though nothing terrible." More importantly: Alas, the calamari fritti with marinara and caper aioli only comes in at #3 on the Essential Dishes list, falling to the Guappo Salad and steamed mussels (blame the caper aioli). +2 Hipness Points because Guappo Salad literally translates to thug salad. [CityBusiness, sub req]
· The names may sound exotic, but Filipino flavors strike comforting common chords at Milkfish [Advocate]
· Review: Horn's [Gambit]
· Marcello's puts Sicily on CBD map [CityBusiness, subscription required]
Milkfish [Photo: Brasted]