Todd Price visits Milkfish this week, the new Filipino brick-and-mortar from chef Cristina Quackenbush this week, and what follows below is his highly-enjoyable (and informative) rendering of Quackenbush's signature dishes. Also very important: Milkfish will serve BOOZE as of June 1, which means lots of exotic tinctures await. Quackenbush also plans to explore more regional variations of Filipino cuisine, so expect menu changes/additions in the future. Now, onward, as Master Price schools the masses with this lesson on Milkfish's cuisine. Take notes, people.
· "Garlic, soy sauce, vinegar and black pepper are the flavors that bind Milkfish's menu, which includes enough cheeks, tails and livers to illustrate an anatomy lesson on pigs and cows."
· "Filipino food, as represented by Quackenbush's cooking, is brash, bold and not for the picky eater."
· "The universally irresistible alchemy of meat meeting bubbling oil anchors the "pulutan," or appetizer sampler, which includes hunks of pork belly and the slender egg rolls called 'lumpia.'"
· "The 'sisig' is a mix of chicken liver and pork face under a fried egg that can be brighten with a squeeze of calamansi, an Asian lime."
· "On the 'dinignan' cubes of pork are coated in a thin blood stew that amplifies the animal flavor, while on the side sweet 'puto' buns and coconut banana rice add a delicate counterbalance."
· "Few diners won't find at least one exotic element at Milkfish, whether its the chewy nub of a pig's tail on the 'pulutan' or the liberal use of pungent fermented shrimp paste on the 'pinakbet.'"