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Sarah Baird reviews "massive, two story" Charcoal's Gourmet Burger Bar in the LGD this week: "Two of the most successful dishes at Charcoal's are the venison and elk burgers, which are appropriately gamey and lean." Unfortunately, Baird finds the restaurant "tries for novelty but often hits gimmickry, with a sprawling list of dishes that ultimately are hit-or-miss." [Gambit]
Tom Fitzmorris gives French Quarter gem Marti's FOUR STARS this week: "The cooking and raw materials are decidedly local, with a scattering of Italian touches," which reminds T-Fitz of the old Marti's, except without the emphasis on being the "city's first openly gay gourmet restaurant." For best results "start with a cocktail and an order of fries," to let the menu sink in, as well as the price of wine..."too expensive." Also: "An off-duty policeman might pay for himself to relieve people’s worries about the neighborhood, which is not as bad as you’ve heard." [CityBusiness, sub req]