Ian McNulty reviews Broussard's this week, noting that chef Guy Reinbolt and company are giving Old World a new look, and about that ostrich: "The look and texture of a very lean steak, but the flavor of a much richer cut. Here, ostrich filet is rolled in bits of mushroom and liberally spotted with soft green peppercorns stuck to the meat with a wine-dark demi glace. The dish falls somewhere between hunting lodge and state dinner." [Advocate]
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