McNulty at Peche, T-Fitz at Deanie's on Hayne

This week Ian McNulty reviews Donald Link's newest restaurant Peche leads to an "unconventional approach to Gulf seafood" means a compelling and invigorating dining experience. McNulty urges diners not to eat at the bar as chef Ryan Prewitt and team have a "vision in play" here that involves "a group effort," meaning you and a bunch of friends eating the shiz out of some whole wood-fired fish (sometimes costly at $40/$50, mind you) and lots of small plates and seasonal sides. Here, the Link group's cred as masters of the boucherie is still at work, but rather than feasting on the whole hog, diners get to sample all the wonders of fish, from crudo to fillet to the tip-to-tail real deal that embodies locally-sourced, mindful "holistic and transparent paths to the plate" of late:

Sweet grilled tilefish, fried grouper neck (all luscious morsels packed around bones and fin), raw swordfish with crisp radishes and leeks — this isn't the stuff of a normal Saturday night fish fry.

But thankfully the casual vibe of the restaurant is, making this another of Link's gems that is the epitome of laid-back dining that's kicking ass and taking names. [Gambit]

Tom Fitzmorris doles out THREE WHOLE STARS to New Orleans East lakefront legend Deanie's on Haynes this week, reflecting on an area that is "bereft of interesting restaurants" thanks in part to a Katrina "deathblow." While this Deanie's is not to be confused with the ones in Bucktown or the Quarter, and is actually older? opening in the 1970's when fishing camps in this area were starting to dwindle? they also happen to be known for epic platters of fried seafood and "unusually large servings." One of which is a longtime signature dish, the fried seafood boat, which is basically "a loaf of bread" containing "enough fried oysters, shrimp and fish to feed at least two people." T-Fitz ranks this as his #9 Essential Dish, sandwiched between #8 fried chicken and #10 hot bread pudding, which is enough to make "this lazy time of the year" last all year long.

While Tommy Boy wishes the restaurant was open for dinner more (currently, they're only open for dinner on Fridays), gives -1 HIPNESS POINTS, and believes the staff is "sometimes in a little over its head," he praises the restaurant for keeping the legacy of Lakefront dining alive with seafood and "terrific" daily specials that range from beef stew to venison burgers. [CityBusiness, subscription required]

· Review: Peche [Gambit]
· Deanie's on Hayne Keeps Lakefront Seafood Legacy Alive [CityBusiness, sub req]
· All Week In Reviews [-ENOLA-]