In his final Gambit review, Ian McNulty heads to Basin Seafood & Spirits this week, and finds a mix of "camp cooking" with a "Latin-edge" that makes for a "well- grounded take on Louisiana seafood." While McNulty deems the po-boys and fish and chips rather lackluster, the crudo, daily whole fish special, outstanding gumbo, and interesting cocktails are worth the trip. [Gambit]
Tom Fitzmorris gives THREE WHOLE STARS to DiCristina's in Covington this week, crossing the lake to traverse the "pasta mountains with slippery slopes of tomato or cream sauces." Alas, that slippery slope has led T-Fitz to get hooked on the sauce again (red AND brown gravy) with this "old-time, Italian-accented" feeding frenzy. Big boy portions of fried seafood and mac & cheese makes DiCristina's sound a lot like Rocky & Carlo's, but T-Fitz insists "this is a much nicer place with distinctly better food." So don't even play. Seriously, the macaroni and cheese is go good it "will grab you even if you don't want to be grabbed," so please kids, if you're approached by this macaroni and cheese and it asks if you want to play, do NOT GET INSIDE the strange van.
And while T-Fitz' top ten essential dishes read like the main causes of childhood obesity, he does get some healthier protein via the #4 "Daily beans specials." Along with this magical fruit "the thin fried onion rings and macaroni and cheese must be included in your order," Tommy Boy notes, even if the unusually large portions won't lead to a "clear conscience," but only to your fridge. -1 HIPNESS POINTS indicates neither belt nor suspenders can keep the britches from giving. [CityBusiness, subscription required]
· Review: Basin Street Seafood & Spirits [Gambit]
· DiCristina's Hearty Plates Appeal Beyond Court House Crowd [CityBusiness]
· All Week In Reviews [-ENOLA-]