clock menu more-arrow no yes

Filed under:

Ian McNulty Is Developing a Milkfish Habit

Ever since opening her first pop-up last spring, Philippines native Cristina Quackenbush has been attracting interest from almost every corner of the city. She expanded her operation last summer, branching out from a Sundays-only gig at Marie's Bar to regular dinner service at Who Dat Café. Now, however, with a freshly-minted review from Ian McNulty, Quackenbush, a fine-dining vet, has earned a delicious stamp of approval for her Filipino cuisine.

McNulty discusses the habit-forming Filipino food that Quackenbush has been serving up from behind the barista counter at Who Dat, paying particular attention to the pop-up's namesake, milkfish, a great example of the restaurant's "striking contemporary renditions" on traditional Filipino dishes:

Its other name is bangus, and I'm not sure which of these terms is least appetizing. But in Quackenbush's kitchen, milkfish is grilled, doused with creamy, shrimp-studded coconut milk curry and topped with an intensely spicy red cabbage slaw that rivals kimchee. The result is a unique showstopper.

With the exception of some disappointing "mock meat" vegetarian alternatives, McNulty's praise of Milkfish is nearly unstinting. Nearly?the name still sounds sort of icky.

·Review: Milkfish [Gambit]
· All Cristina Quackenbush Coverage [-ENOLA-]
· Milkfish [Official Site]

Inside Who Dat Café [Photo: yelp]

Milkfish

125 N Carrollton Ave, New Orleans, LA

2401 Burgundy St. New Orleans, LA

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater New Orleans newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world