It's been a couple weeks (insane Super Bowl/Mardi Gras weeks, mind you) since Company Burger's Adam Biderman has been running the kitchen at P@P, and the critics are now flocking to Cure Co's quarter destination to test the waters. Although the menu will change in the coming months as P@P transforms into a rum bar with a new name, here's the early word on Biderman's kitchen.
Ian McNulty reports that Biderman is "clearly having fun, matching bar snacks and modest-sized entrees with the Slavic decor of the bar's previous incarnation":
More vegetarian options than your babushka might prepare, like pelmeni (Russian dumplings) filled with potato and cheese and topped with black pepper sour cream and fried shallots, and a salad of shaved Brussels sprouts, kale, radish, turnips and rutabaga... A bowl of curry-spiced puffed pork skins makes an unconventional but persuasive bar nosh. McNulty says that Biderman's menu will soon enough switch its focus to foods from sugar-growing/rum-producing lands to match Nick Detrich's cocktails, accompanied by the rehab of a big-ass outdoor rotisserie in the courtyard. [Gambit]
Nola Defender calls P@P "a fully operational, Russo-Judeo resto":
Biderman was raised in a reform Jewish household, and he said he drew influences from his childhood when creating the menu. Although the chef described his dishes as "homey," NoDef thinks he was being humble. It's unlikely that the majority of his customers ever ate like this on a typical Monday night at their parents' kitchen table. Amongst the matzo ball soup and potato pancakes, No Def hones in on Biderman's brisket, which is based off his mama's own recipe, and is cured overnight, slow cooked for 14 hours, carved up, and glazed until it has a 'veneer.' No Def says, "the best part of this dish, hands down, is the fat on the meat. There's nothing chewy about it." The brisket along with "the triggerfish," a crispy, flaky fish with a "campfire flavor" are No Def's favorites, for the time being anyways. Before Biderman gets all "Cuban cuisine" up in the Quarters, a "gourmet plate of Eastern European grub" runs less than $15. [NOLADefender]
The kitchen at P@P is currently open Wedneday-Saturday at 5:30 p.m.
· Slavic Bar Snacks in the Quarter [Gambit]
· Company Burger's Adam Biderman Rations Eastern European Grub at Perestroika [NOLADefender]
· All Week In Reviews [-ENOLA-]