Reviews for Mariza, Dijon, Tujague's and Maïs Arepas

Mariza earns the coveted FOUR BEANS from The Times-Pic this week, and Brett Anderson starts out with this doozy: "Bywater didn't used to be like this. And by 'this' I mean flush with pilgrims drawn by meals of a type previously the near-exclusive domain of restaurants on the other side of Esplanade Avenue." Yes, we get it already, folks in covered wagons want crudo as much as NOLA.com readers want fodder for gentrification comment rage. As for owner/chef Ian Schnoebelen, he happens to be a resident of the Bywater, and "proves himself to be a serious student of Italian cooking, which inspires him to create a personal strain of refined comfort food," and an experience that comes off "more ambitious and more modest" than the one found at his intimate Quarter restaurant Iris. [NOLA.com]

Ian McNulty gets to know a "different" Tujague's this week, one that has been revamped with the future in mind: New menu items like gnocchi and "planks of raw tuna," plus a weekend brunch, and a "cosmetic overhaul" are all "changes, directed by owner Mark Latter and chef Richard Bickford," all of which "have vaulted Tujague's out from what was becoming food museum status." [Advocate]

Scott Gold reviews the rather chef-shuffle plagued Dijon in the Lower Garden District this week: While the renovated fire house is "beautiful and airy," Gold notes "it's a shame that the food at Dijon doesn't come close to matching its attractive location— especially at this price point. Right now, it's not quite cutting the mustard," but then again, the latest chef, Ricky Cheramie, only took over in late September.[Gambit]

Tom Fitzmorris doles out THREE WHOLE STARS to Central City's MaÏs Arepas this week, deeming David Mantilla's hotspot "a credible candidate for best new restaurant of any kind in 2013." T-Fitz notes "the ceviche, made very spicy, may be the best I've ever eaten," and trades in the red sauce for "some plantain chips with a side order of pink sauce." All that plus +3 hipness points. [CityBusiness, sub req]

· Mariza, The Bywater Italian Restaurant, Earns Four Beans: New Orleans Restaurants Review [NOLA.com]
· Tujaque's, Act II [Advocate]
· Review: Dijon [Gambit]
· Mais Arepas Adds To South American Dining Scene [CityBusiness, subscription required]
· All Week In Reviews [-ENOLA-]