Ian McNulty has more on the new boutique bowling experience Fulton Alley this week, which is now open on the ground floor of the Harrah's parking garage. McNulty reports that Mike Nirenberg's small plates of comfort food take a "step up" from ordinary bowling alley food: "It's not exactly haute cuisine, but it's a long way from the snack bar and concession stand." McNulty notes the meat pies, deviled eggs topped with cracklin', and "fish tots," yes fish tots, "croquettes of shredded potato and black drum, with smoked tomato aioli on the side" as worthy small plates.
Fulton Alley joins Gusto Adolfo Garcia's cinema dining option and Barcadia helmed by chef Nick Hufft in the local "chef-driven food in unconventional settings" category, rendering it "a modern remaking of the bowling alley." But there still seem to be a few outdated elements hanging on, like this: "You still have to step into motley-colored rental shoes to take the lanes here." And more bizarrely this: "The cocktail waitresses wear bustiers."
· Ian McNulty: When small plates meet spares and strikes [Advocate]
· All Fulton Alley Coverage [-ENOLA-]
Fulton Alley signage [Photo: Josh Brasted]