It's a true switcheroo from the strange, small world of New Orleans food critics this week. Yes, it appears that Scott Gold has now nabbed Ian McNulty's former position as restaurant-reviewer at the Gambit, contributing his first review of Galatoire's 33 Bar & Steak today, right down to the very "what works/what doesn't" sidebar. Oh, how the wheels of fate doth turn in Gold's favor, for as you may recall, he seemed to make a rather abrupt departure from The Advocate in late August when McNulty came on as head culinary honcho. No word on if Gold will be a permanent Gambit fixture, as the rag hasn't released any form of statement at this time, and it appears at least two other writers, Megan Braden-Perry and Jeanie Riess, have been contributing to their food news.
As for Gold's first Gambit review, it's nice to see the shameless carnivore getting right down to business, even if the ghost of McNulty past does seem to still cast a shadow on the sitch, thanks to the tinged font and page layout. Of Galatoire's 33 Bar and Steak, Gold says: "In the dining room, things get serious... If you are a fan of old-school steakhouse fare done properly, and are willing to pay for it, this is your place." From "pleasingly primal" roasted bone marrow to expertly prepared steaks, poultry, and potato-centric sides Gold insists this is a "new but exciting chapter in the restaurant's history." [Gambit]