Tom Fitzmorris rides his magic carpet across the lake to visit Pardo's this week. The expensive but "solidly popular" Creole bistro was opened by owner Osman Rodas last May in a strip mall, like many restaurants on the North Shore, "despite the affluence of much of the Mandeville-Covington corridor." The wood fire oven, wealth of seafood, and "spiffy open kitchen" helmed by chef Jason West, provides, "a meal impressive enough that most conversations are about the food, which is a very good sign."
It's a sad day when Tommy Boy's star system rating does not accompany the review, though. How many stars he gave Pardo's, dearest readers, we may never know. But based on the review, Eater is predicting that Pardo's received the habitual three WHOLE stars. Not enough to beat spokesmodel Bobbie Brown, but enough to leave the Ed McMahon of NOLA dining, one T. Fitzmorris, feeling like he never left Uptown. [City Business, sub. req]
Ian McNulty bypasses the library next door to Serendipity, and instead prepares for his literary exams by sampling Chef Chris DeBarr's cooking this week. "His dishes often have narratives," says McNulty, "they sometimes require a little reference work and, even when they're mysteries, they're always novel." DeBarr brings a few of his "unconventional" and "exotic" classics, honed at the Delachaise and Green Goddess, to Serendipity's menu:
Shrimp "wearing a grass skirt" is a dish of buttery barbecue shrimp sweetened with fruit and wrapped in shredded phyllo (the skirt). His truffled goat cheese "ravioli" are fashioned from slices of golden beets instead of pasta.
Serendipity has a full bar, a lounge area, and is located in the American Can Building overlooking Bayou St. John. While McNulty claims "some dishes are more about storytelling than dining," self-proclaimed poet Chris Debarr offers an "adventurous side" to New Orleans dining. [Gambit]
·Pardo's Brings Uptown Bistro Feel, Food to North Shore [CityBusiness]
· Review: Serendipity [Gambit]
· All Week In Reviews [-ENOLA-]
Pardo's [Photo: Facebook]