Tom Fitzmorris is sweatin' to the 'golden oldies' this week, basking in Annunciation owner/chef Stephen Manning's menu that defies culinary trends and offers a 'familiar flare' in the Warehouse District. Fitzcrankenstein also manages to throw shade at neighboring Cochon, which he calls "too hip," while making his point. Sounds like somebody's jealous of Stephen Stryjewski's airbrushed unicorn shirt.
T-Fitz doesn't need a hot tub time machine to journey back to the "gourmet bistro era" of New Orleans' dining, because Chef Manning recreates the halcyon days of his former Uptown home Clancy's at Annunciation...
If you like Clancy's, you'll like this place. Not only is the food similar, but the buzz among the regulars was well established shortly after Annunciation opened. The food is semi-retro and includes great dishes that were popular in the 1980s but have become since less common.
And though Fitzmorris "is a little disappointed that Manning hasn't yet added much in the way of new dishes," he still gives Annunciation with its glassed in wine cellar and 'spiffy" bar an illustrious FOUR WHOLE STARS, for all his 1980's Star Search watchin' homies. [City Business, subscription req]
Ian McNulty visits a totally different Manning this week, yes, the Archie Manning's namesake "sports tavern where even if the food isn't always on, the game is." the giant 30+ television sports mecca in Harrah's has a decent redfish courtbouillon, though Mcnulty cautions:
what should be easy points for an upscale sports bar were too often lifeless duds — the dry, insipid burger tops that list and the consistently limp fries are only worth eating when completely covered with pork, cheese and gravy. There's also an appetizer-laden "game day menu," served during big games, but like the regular menu it's patchy.
And something you never thought would come from the pen of McNulty: "I like the alligator sausage sliders for their tang." Other than that, he says, "the food doesn't bring much passion." [Gambit]
Peter Thriffiley Jr. embraces his healthful New Year's resolutions? "No more afternoon outings to Cochon Butcher for chocolate chip cookies" and so forth? with a trip to CBD 'salad specialist' City Greens. Most of City Greens' greens come from co-owner Ben Kazenmaier's hydroponic farm located near Seaside, Florida, and also from Covey Rise Farms on the Northshore. Thriffiley attests to the daily lunch specials, and cautions first-timers to just order form the menu rather than make their own salad/wrap, which can get rather pricy. [BlackenedOut]