The oft-cranky Ed Mcmahon of restaurant critics, Tom Fitzmorris, gives John Besh's Isleños-influenced seafood restaurant Borgne three stars this week. Former Galatoire's chef Brian Landry's menu takes inspiration from St. Bernard Parish's Isleños cuisine and also revives dishes New Orleans hasn't seen in a while.
"Oysters are here in many guises, starting with the raw bar," and including the decor. There are square columns of oyster shells, which add to the casual atmosphere that Tommy Boy seems to enjoy, except for chairs that "resemble those bucket-style plastic seats in a 1960s bowling alley. " Of the food, he enjoys the broiled Louisiana oysters with spicy garlic butter the best.
In fact, most of the dishes he lists as favorites don't seem to have much of a Spanish flare to them at all. Back in May, Brett Anderson gave Borgne four beans for their interesting cuisine, but Fitzmorris only gives the food three out of five stars, stating that "some presentations are so informal that they look thrown onto the plate." Though he did give Borgne bonus points for "hipness" and, quite appropriately, "attitude."