This week, it was Ian McNulty's turn to weigh in on Toups' Meatery, something the meat-loving critic was all too eager to do: "For a crash course in what chef Isaac Toups and his crew have been up to, order the lamb neck. It stands on the menu as a challenge ('neck' is a word in need of a culinary euphemism) and it arrives at the table as an anatomy lesson, a Jenga-like stack of vertebrae shedding strips and peels of meat between lustrous seams of melted marrow." [Gambit]
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