Reviews of Ancora, Brennan's, and Golden Dragon

This week Ian Mcnulty gives a glowing review of Ancora, the Neopolitan pizza destination on Freret, opened by Adolfo Garcia and Jeff Talbot last summer. Mcnulty notes that they've "perfected" their crust, testifying: "The dough's texture has a good tug and stretch to it, crisp but not cracker-stiff, with charred bubbles scattered like beauty marks." While McNulty likes the "gorgeous produce" and "interesting sides," he wishes there were more menu options. They do not take phone orders or deliver. [Gambit]

Rene Louapre hysterically ponders if his brunch at Brennan's is worth it. Somewhere between getting the "absolute worst table in New Orleans" and an astronomical bill, Laoupre drinks a Ramos Gin Fizz from a dirty glass, is ignored by staff, eats cold eggs, questions his wife's veal, and likens the meal to "a nightmare trainwreck on acid." The turtle soup, at least, is "fantastic." [BlackenedOut]

Tom Fitzmorris visits the long-running chinese restaurant, Golden Dragon, giving them three out of four stars. They moved to 3009 Magazine from Metairie last year, and Fitzmorris has mostly good things to say. While some salty dishes and the restaurant's "perceived authenticity" don't appeal to him, here's what does: spring rolls, spicy Szechuan and elegant Mandarin that "don't skimp on the garlic or Szechuan pepper", and more stir-frying than deep-frying. [City Business, subscription required]

·All Week in Reviews [EaterNOLA]
Ancora Pizzeria and Salumeria [Photo:Facebook]