Looking for a new lunch spot that doesn't involve gourmet burgers, noodle bowls, or a chain restaurant? Ian McNulty is with you, describing New Orleans' changing lunch landscape as "handwringing" in his latest review. So McNulty hit up Avery's Po-Boys on Tulane Ave, a no frills "boot strap" of a sandwich shop in a corridor long considered in need of some serious entrepreneurial TLC.
Avery's is a family-run operation, and the main draw seems to be the Buffalo shrimp po-boy, which McNulty exalts to mouthwatering status:
Wing-style sauce on fried seafood is not a new idea, but attention to detail and composition makes Avery's example a standout. Shrimp are coated in a properly tangy Buffalo sauce with more pucker than heat, and the masterstroke is a chunky blue cheese dressing with the right balance of velvety richness and pungency.
Though an overcooked burger was a rare "off note," McNulty spoke highly of everything from the gumbo to a fried, as in deep fried, potato salad.