McNulty on the 'Bright and Smartly Designed' Pizzicare

In this week's Gambit, Ian McNulty files on the Tulane Avenue outpost for New York style pizza, Pizzicare. Owned by Jeff Baron and Bart Bell of Crescent Pie & Sausage Co., Pizzicare is "a convincing local outpost for New York pizza culture." But does it stand up to true New York pizza? Let's start with the crust:Pizzicare's is thin but sturdy. It holds its form while retaining enough pliancy for the careful origami of folding and bending that's required to manage the plate-sized slices of a classic New York-style pie. Also important is the surrounding lip of crust, with its oven-darkened domes and bubbles adding texture and puffiness.With a "barely noticeable" layer of red sauce, these slices become "canvases for the twin trends of handmade meats and local vegetables." While this local focus is good, especially in a city as proud of its local food traditions as New Orleans, McNulty ultimately concludes that "as Pizzicare demonstrates with its point-fold-and-eat homage to New York slice culture, sometimes inspiration from afar is pretty good too."

· Review: Pizzicare [Gambit]
· All Pizzicare Coverage [-ENOLA-]