In this week's Gambit, Ian McNulty files on the Tulane Avenue outpost for New York style pizza, Pizzicare. Owned by Jeff Baron and Bart Bell of Crescent Pie & Sausage Co., Pizzicare is "a convincing local outpost for New York pizza culture." But does it stand up to true New York pizza? Let's start with the crust:Pizzicare's is thin but sturdy. It holds its form while retaining enough pliancy for the careful origami of folding and bending that's required to manage the plate-sized slices of a classic New York-style pie. Also important is the surrounding lip of crust, with its oven-darkened domes and bubbles adding texture and puffiness.With a "barely noticeable" layer of red sauce, these slices become "canvases for the twin trends of handmade meats and local vegetables." While this local focus is good, especially in a city as proud of its local food traditions as New Orleans, McNulty ultimately concludes that "as Pizzicare demonstrates with its point-fold-and-eat homage to New York slice culture, sometimes inspiration from afar is pretty good too."
· Review: Pizzicare [Gambit]
· All Pizzicare Coverage [-ENOLA-]