It's hump day, which means there's a pair of reviews to talk about. First, in this week's Gambit, Ian McNulty files a review of Tomas Bistro, the French-Creole restaurant in the Warehouse District owned by Tommy Andrade, owner of the neighboring Tommy's Cuisine and Tommy's Wine Bar. With three restaurants on one block, McNulty writes that Andrade seems to be "out to turn one block of Tchoupitoulas Street into his own upscale food court." Running the kitchen is former Muriel's chef Guy Sockrider, whose menu "is about elegant, understated dishes" that rely heavily on the French tradition. As a result, while McNulty generally praises the food, he writes that "it's hard to fight the sense that the party is happening somewhere else" due to a general lack of "exploration or reinterpretation."
Meanwhile, in this week's CityBusiness, the occasionally-still-kinda-relevant Tom Fitzmorris reviews the Oak Street barbecue joint Squeal (subscription required). Barbecue, he notes, has become "an obsession" for diners and chefs alike, and Squeal's offerings are "nicely smoked and [have] a satisfying bark and seasoning." Yet he refuses to name Squeal among the top 5 in the city, not because it's not good but because there's just so much competition now.
· Review: Tomas [Gambit]
· Squeal Contends with Competitors in Local BBQ Trend [CityBusiness, subscription required]
Inside Tomas Bistro. [Photo: Official Site]