In this week's Gambit, Ian McNulty files on the "sprawling" St. Charles restaurant Superior Seafood, cousin to the Superior Grill chain with a menu by chef Justin Ferguson. He writes of the hit-or-miss, rather expensive offerings:
Quality varies widely, and it's hard to guess which dishes will satisfy. Price and complexity are not reliable indicators here. The $17 linguini with shrimp and pesto was a relative bargain on this menu and one of the better dishes I tried, as was a $27 entree of scallops, each crowned with a crisp edge and slivered garlic.McNulty had complaints about the redfish, blackened drum Napoleon and the crab maison, writing that "Guests are paying for fine dining and getting something at least a full notch lower." That said, Superior Seafood is, like its cousin down the Avenue, Superior Grill, perfectly suited for large groups and also "gets some credit just for rescuing this address, a former Copeland's that sat blighted for years after Hurricane Katrina."