Brett Anderson, food critic for the TImes-Pic, has got the best job in the city right now: Going around town trying all of the area's best roast beef po' boys. This week he stops by Tujague's, the second oldest restaurant in the city, opened in 1856, famous for its spicy remoulade and beef brisket. Anderson writes that "the meat, as unassuming as it appears, is also delicious, particularly as the money ingredient in a po-boy." He criticizes the crumb of bread for having "lost some of its cotton pliancy" and writes that the romaine lettuce is an inadequate substitute for iceberg.
All in all, Anderson writes that "Tujague's sandwich is a very good one. But it also proves that even the best beef isn't enough to create the best roast beef po-boy."