In this week's Gambit, Ian McNulty heads to Ralph Brennan's Metairie Road eatery, Café B, which got three beans from Brett Anderson back in October. Located out on Metairie Road, Brennan opened Café B last spring as he was looking for a space for his shuttered Italian restaurant, Bacco. The chef at Café B, in fact, is the old Bacco chef Chris Montero.
But aside from a few dishes that made the transition, McNulty writes that Café B has its own, new identity, as a neighborhood restaurant with a menu that was originally "in line with the gastro pub trend" but has since focused more on local flavors and seafood. Regarding the menu's shift, McNulty writes, "Diners still can get a $15 burger here — and it is very good — but the core DNA now is local contemporary Creole, made a bit more homey than a date-night destination restaurant." But that's a good thing, as he talks up a number of menu items like the "shrimp beignets spiked with tasso.
Brett Anderson, meanwhile, continues his march through the city's best roast beef po' boys. This time, he heads to KY's Olde Towne Bicycle Shop in Slidell. It's another "neighborhood-style restaurant," owned by Kevin Young, who's a member of a family that runs several North Shore restaurants. While the other Youngs run steakhouses and an Italian restaurant, Kevin Young displays "a willingness to break from family tradition" with this eclectic eatery. And while Anderson has generally been disappointed on his roast beef po' boy hunt?see, for example, the rant inspired by Mother's and his takedown of Tracey's?he finally seems truly pleased, writing, "The roast beef po-boy may not be KY’s signature, but it hits too many sweet spots not to challenge allegiance to your favorite."
And finally, in the blogs: Blackened Out gives the burger at Phil's Grill a birdie and says that Arnaud's French 75 is totally worth it. Culicurious is definitely going back to Root. And Clark Castle at Po' Bou Livin' Rich generally approves of Mother's.