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This week's reviews are capped off by one from Ian McNulty at the Gambit, who visits The Midway, Freret Street's deep dish pizza joint. McNulty starts by noting that, while deep dish is obviously a Chicago thing, Midway has its roots in Alexandria, Virginia, where owner Steve Watson's father opened a deep dish joint in the 1980s. Watson is a co-owner of the popular uptown bar The Kingpin, opening Midway last year with his business partner Ben Sherman. Having established that background info, how's the food?
The crew here has devised some original pies — like the Natty E, with chicken, bacon and streaks of creamy, brightly-flavored Green Goddess dressing, and the Latin-inspired FD Squared, with chorizo, chiles and crumbly cojita cheese. Caramelized onions and Gorgonzola are as gourmet as the roster of toppings gets, but this kitchen does a lot with the basics.McNulty raves about the meatballs especially, and notes that while the portions are massive ("A large pizza occupies and can feed a booth full of people") the pizzas still don't "weigh nearly so heavily on the belly as their burly heft suggests."
Meanwhile, in the blogs: Clark Castle of Po' Boy Livin' Rich gives an early review of Superior Seafood, writing, "All things considered, I’m sure I’ll be back for dinner, but I’m not in a rush." But for drinks, that's a totally different story: "I would rush back for happy hour to drink and nibble on some of the apps." Blackened Out went to lunch at Borgne, giving its lunch offerings a strong recommendation: "Do yourself a favor. Resolve to starve yourself tomorrow by skipping lunch" and and use the money you saved to go to Borgne the next day.
