Peter Thriffiley Jr. gets his game on at the Harrah's Casino/Fulton Street "man cave" Manning's this week. The food reminds him of "a Mike Leach coached football team? lots of razzle dazzle which puts points on the scoreboard but weak fundamentals can cost them the game." The massive 210-seat restaurant is decent enough for watching games with tons of televisions. Despite a few menu flaws? a very thin Abita/cheese bisque and a dry Archie burger? the Thriff-Man believes newish chef Jared Tees' game day menu works a lot better than former chef Anthony Spizale's "out of place" Southern fare. So what to order while you're there?
The highlights include cochon de lait frites, which proves that the combination of pork, french fries, and cheese curds is a fool proof recipe for deliciousness. The reconfigured sweet potato skins with goat cheese and bacon marmalade were stellar as well and worthy of a second round.
Overall, Thriffiley Jr. finds Manning's excels as a sports bar, not a restaurant, with friendly service, a LOT of televisions, and their gigantic leather 'End Zone' recliners pictured above. [BlackenedOut]
Ian McNulty finds "elegant simplicity" at the Warehouse District's neo-Clancy's restaurant, Annunciation, this week. Chef Steven Manning (not to be confused wiht the aforementioned Mannings) was the longtime chef at Clancy's, so it's little wonder that he brought over menu items to Annunciation, like the fried oysters with spinach and Brie, of which McNulty says:
The melted cheese oozes out from its rinds to glaze the oysters and pool between them, and if it weren't already so familiar this irresistible appetizer would probably count as the most innovative dish at Annunciation.
Overall, McNulty deems it a traditional restaurant that is great for bargain-priced lunches, and excellent seafood, even though certain dishes "can seem austere by contemporary standards." [Gambit]
Manning's End Zone [Photo: Facebook]