Rene Louapre IV believes the crabmeat au gratin is about the only fantastic thing at The Bon Ton Cafe, but lordy, does it sound fantastic: A cauldron of pearly white crabmeat floats in a spoonable bechamel. Across the top of this delicacy of brackish waters is a carpet of melted American cheese. Now you may snicker at the use of American cheese in post-Foodie Revolution America, but if Adam Biderman can use it with fantastic results at Company Burger, why not here?" [BlackenedOut]
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