This week Tom Fitzmorris visits Horinoya, the often overlooked sushi restaurant in the CBD, and gives out three whole stars, deeming their sushi the perfect "fast food" for game days at the Dome. Opened in 2002 by the Horimoto family? former owners of the Little Tokyo franchise on St. Charles? the sushi at Horinoya is "beautiful to behold, cut with precision, served at the perfect cool temperature and vivid in flavor."
Fitzmorris also throws out some ninja stars with his comparison of sushi to fast food, "Among sushi's many unique qualities as a culinary style is its ability to function as a fast food. All the chef has to do at the moment of service is cut it and arrange it on the plate." Tommy Boy saves the day by confirming that Chef Komei Horimoto is "unusually choosy about the provenance of his raw materials, even by the exacting standards of Japanese chefs." Fitzmorris' favorite pick is the Ankimo, monkfish liver, which he calls "the foie gras of Japan."
· Horinoya Offers Next Level Fast Food on Game Day [CityBus, subscription required]
· All Week In Reviews [ENOLA]