In today's Times-Pic, restaurant critic Brett Anderson visits and gives three beans to Satsuma, the Bywater coffee shop and veggie-heavy café that becomes a "serious" restaurant four nights a week. With dinner service prepared almost pop up-like by former Patois chef Michael Constantini, Anderson marvels at the regular transformaton: "What by day is a neighborhood café that would not appear out of character sponsoring classes on rolling your own cigarettes was, at the moment, something else entirely: a restaurant, and a very good one." [TP]
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