Times-Pic restaurant critic Brett Anderson is on the hunt for the best roast beef po' boy in town, and he had some strong (and not very complimentary) words for popular shops Domilise's and Parkway Tavern & Bakery. Both of these spots, Anderson writes, "are locals favorites whose reputations resonate beyond state lines." But while their reputations are well-earned ("I can recommend ordering just about anything at either"), he just doesn't think their roast beef po' boys are very good.
At Domilise's, the roast beef is "so dry it repelled gravy ... like a tarp does rain." Meanwhile, Parkway had the opposite problem: the beef is "cooked to such moist tenderness there's little texture to it at all - and surprisingly little flavor." The former is too messy because the gravy just drips out instead of attaching itself to the actual sandwich; the latter because it "couldn't hold its shape past four bites."
Anderson does acknowledge that the roast beef po' boys at both places are actually pretty popular. So they must be doing something right? At any rate, his search for the best roast beef po' boy in town is a five month eating adventure?really not a bad gig at all?so there'll definitely be plenty of opportunities to have worse ones.